Save on HVAC Costs - Caulk and Seal Your Windows For Energy Efficiency

As energy costs increase, people begin to look for ways to lower their personal energy consumption. One of the popular points of improvement are new windows. With advances in technology and materials, windows are substantially better than their predecessors at retaining heat during winter months and keeping the home cooler during the summer. Unfortunately, new windows can be quite expensive! However, there are options if you are unable to afford new windows or would prefer to replace your windows gradually rather than all at once.

Before embarking on the improvement of your current windows, it pays to inspect them. Are there rotten boards, cracked glass or other broken parts? Depending on the condition you might be forced to replace these windows as they are beyond enhancement. Also, consider replacement if your windows were installed before 1978 as they might contain lead paint. Lead is an hazardous substance that should not be in your home particularly if children are present.

If your windows pass muster, you can begin improving them for energy efficiency. One of the cheapest and easiest tasks is to caulk all cracks and gaps around the window frame. Air can seep (and sometimes actually blow) through these gaps. By blocking these pathways you will be taking a big leap toward increased energy efficiency. You will need a caulk gun which will run less than $10 and is very easy to operate even for a complete novice. You will also need a few tubes of caulk which run a few dollars per tube at home improvement stores. Be sure to purchase paintable caulk if you would like to cover the caulk after it has cured.

Actually applying the caulk is very easy. Simply load the caulk tube into the gun, trim off the end of the tube with scissors or a knife and then run a wire down the tip to puncture the foil covering inside. Apply the tip of the tube to the area you wish to seal and slowly pull the trigger. It might takes a few squeezes for the caulk to come out on a new tube. Once it is slowly flowing, move the tip over the crack to fill it up. To smooth the caulk or push it into a new position, wet your finger and apply pressure as needed. Using a dry finger causes the caulk to stick to your finger and tends to make things messier. In a pinch, saliva works just as well!

Also, be sure to pick up weather stripping to fill in gaps around the sash where the window goes up and down. You will need to custom fit the stripping to your windows.

Be sure to inspect your caulk and weather stripping every year to make sure everything is still in working order.

By taking these two simple steps, you have gone a long way toward greater efficiency. Plus, you have save thousands of dollars in the process! That will make anybody feel good.

For more information on your HVAC units, service, & repair or energy efficiency, please visit http://www.AbelOnSite.com.

Article independently authored by Eric Parish. The content herein may or may not reflect the views and opinions of Abel On Site.

How to Extend the Efficiency and Life Span of Your Water Heater by Draining It

When was the last time you thought about your water heater? In all likelihood it was when you ran out of hot water. Fortunately, the lack of hot water only lasted for a few minutes or hours. Could you run out of hot water for a longer period of time? You sure can! If your water heater fails you will be without hot water for several days while waiting for a replacement. Avoid this hassle and give your heater a little tender loving care. Fortunately, it isn't hard to do.

The most important thing to do is drain your hot water tank. Over time, sediment from the water settles on the bottom of the tank. This can cause the tank to rust and to slowly be corroded away until it ruptures. Plus, the extra layer of gunk causes the heater to work harder and less efficiently which increases your gas or electric bill. By draining the tank you remove the gunk and keep the unit working in tip-top condition.

To drain your heater you will need a hose and about an hour or two.

The first step is to turn off the heat source. With an electric heater, you will need to flip the breaker switch to "off". With a gas heater turn the thermostat knob to the pilot setting.

Next, turn off the cold water supply to your tank. The line is typically labeled on the water heater and the shut off is located just above the tank.

Open a hot water faucet somewhere in the home. This will prevent a vacuum from forming in the tank as the water drains.

The tank's drain will be located at the bottom and will have a threaded outlet as well. Attach the hose to the tank and route the other end of the hose to a safe surface for receiving many gallons of hot water. Open the drain valve and watch the water flow! It will be very dirty and brown to start but eventually it will run more clear. Turn on the cold water once the tank is empty to flush out the final bits of sediment. Allow water to flow until it comes out clear. Close the drain valve and the faucet on the sink you opened up.

Allow the tank to fill completely and then turn on the electricity or gas again.

That's it! Very straight forward and simple stuff. Just a few minutes of your time and you extend the life of your water heater. Simply repeat every year and your water heater will thank you!

For more information please visit http://www.ableonsite.com the water heater installation specialists and hvac servicing.

Article independently authored by Eric Parish. The content herein may or may not reflect the views and opinions of Able Onsite Heating and Cooling Specialist.

What is the Best Type of Furnace For Your Home?

From geothermal heating to gas furnaces and electric heaters to wood burning stoves there are many different ways people choose to heat their home. Of course, this warmth does not come cheap. Whether you use natural gas, electric heat or an alternate heat source, heating bills in the winter typically supersede the cost of keeping cool.

So, how can you determine what the best form of heating is? Here are a few considerations to help you before you make a final decision.


Source- If you are building a new home the heating options are more varied as you can go with whatever method will be best for you. However, for existing homes, it may necessary to stay with the type of heat already in use and just change the size and efficiency of the model. For new homes, many homeowners are choosing to use alternative heating methods such as solar heating, absorption heating or geothermal heat pumps.
Cost- Typically fuel is measured in physical units such as gallons or watts with the most common measurement being the Btu (British thermal unit). A Btu is the amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1o F. Currently, the most inexpensive forms of heating are (from lowest to highest)-seasoned firewood, propane, natural gas and electric heating.
Environmental concerns- In this "Going green" society, many are choosing to use firewood, propane, natural gas or solar heating as it is far more earth-friendly than electric heat since it does not require coal to be burned in order to be used.
Efficiency and Size- A furnace that is too big for a space will cycle off and on more than necessary using more heat and energy and adding higher costs to the bill. When you are deciding on a furnace, be sure to know the dimensions of the space to be heated so that you can select a heat source that will keep the space warm without straining the system and costing you too much money. To ensure the best possible furnace, be sure to look for an Energy Star certified heater.
Talk to a certified HVAC technician or a contractor who is a member of the North American Technician Excellence (NATE) group. They will be able to tell you what type of heating unit and fuel will be best for you home. You may also want to talk to friends and neighbors to get their insight.
If you are still uncertain what type of fuel and furnace will be best and whether or not the investment will actually pay off, use this formula to determine the Return on Investment (ROI): Take your first year savings (or potential savings) and divide them by the cost of installation. The answer will give you an idea of how long it will take you to pay back your savings with your new furnace.

For further information on furnaces for you home, please visit www.abelonsite.com today.

Article independently authored by Janet M Slagell. The content herein may or may not reflect the views and opinions of Abel Onsite Heating and Cooling.

Is Your Air Conditioner Making You Sick?

There's nothing quite like coming inside after a long afternoon in the sun and feeling the cool air provided by your air conditioner. As the cooler temperatures hit your body, you begin to relax and breathe easier. However, this is not always the case. In fact, in recent years, the number of reports about poor indoor air quality has become more prevalent.

According to a study by Cornell University, at least 20% of building occupants have experienced the following symptoms (also known as "sick building syndromes") due to the air quality in homes or work locations:

• Headache, fatigue, shortness of breathe
• Sinus congestion, cough or sneezing
• Eye, nose, throat and skin irritation
• Dizziness or nausea

However, for people who have asthma, allergies, respiratory diseases, a compromised immune system or wear contact lens poor indoor air quality can cause even more aggravation.

Some people often suffer with these symptoms for months not realizing that they are caused by the air inside not the elements outside. If you are not sure whether or not you are suffering from health problems as a result of poor indoor air quality, here are some guidelines from the EPA that can help you determine if you have "sick building syndrome".

• Many people in your office/building are experiencing the same type of problems
• The problems go away when you leave the building or are gone for several days (i.e. over the weekend)
• The problems seem to occur suddenly
• People with respiratory issues, asthma or chemical sensitivities have no problem when outside, but struggle with breathing and have the symptoms listed above when indoors.
• Someone else in your building has already been diagnosed with an indoor air-related problem.

If you are a building owner or manager, then you do not want to be held responsible for any health issues of your employees or residents. To prevent your building from becoming another news story, due to poor indoor air quality concerns, here are several steps you can take.

• Pay attention to your surroundings. Note the air vents in your building. Are they clean? Does there seem to be a moldy or musty smell?
• Ask others around you. Occasionally ask co-workers or other building occupants if they have noticed any changes in air quality, leaks or mold/ musty smells around the vents or ceiling tiles. This can be done via e-mail, surveys, door to door-whatever works best for you to collect the information.
• Keep records. If residents/workers in a particular spot seem to report an above average amount of complaints, you may need to test the HVAC system in that area or call in a professional to do it for you.
• Testing devices are available from many HVAC companies, as well as online. These tests can check for air duct cleanliness as well as allergens and microbial growth.

Taking the time to make sure your AC system is working without causing sickness is important.

For further information on heating and air conditioning, please visit www.abelonsite.com.

Article independently authored by Janet Slagell. The content herein may or may not reflect the views and opinions of Abel Onsite.

Residential Solar Concepts 101

Ah, yes, the summertime! A wonderful time of year for some activities. Nothing could ruin the fun - except maybe the electric bill coming in the mail! It can be so expensive running central air and fans. Is there a way to escape from burdensome electric bills?

In fact, there is a way to escape and it is trendy too - solar! Alternative energy is very big right now and as a homeowner you can get in on the action. In fact, the federal government is giving people a tax credit of 30% of the material and installation costs of a solar system. That is much, much better than a run-of-the-mill tax deduction. The states also have incentives but they can vary widely. In short, now is probably the most economical time the United States has ever seen for installing residential solar systems

Basically, solar powering your home is done by capturing the sun's rays with panels installed on your roof or near your house. The panels convert the sunlight into electricity and then an inverter converts the power from direct current into AC power which is usable by your home appliances.

There are two ways to implement solar power into your home. Off grid and grid-tied. With off grid, your entire home is powered by solar and you do not have a connection to the electrical grid. The power company simply does not exist for you. This is a great way to power your home but it can cost tens of thousands of dollars even with government incentives to install the system all at once. This is difficult for many people to do.

Grid-tied is the more common way for people to power their home. Basically, your house is still connected to electric company but you have solar panels generating electricity as well. The power from the grid is only used if your solar array is not providing enough for your needs at any point in time. Why wouldn't your array provide all of your needs?

It might not provide all of your needs at a given moment because:

1. The sun is not shining

2. You are running many electrical devices at once - which is unusual for your home

3. Your array is only a meant to be a partial solution

If the sun is not shining, your solar panels can't collect sunlight. It might be nighttime, there might be an intense storm or heavy cloud cover. Either way there is no power for you. You can overcome this obstacle by installing batteries with your solar system. The batteries will store excess electricity generated that is not used by your home right away. For instance, if you are on vacation there will likely be surplus energy and the batterie will capture and store it. With batteries, you can still use your solar energy no matter what the sun is doing. The drawback to batteries is that they are an expensive part of the system.

Next, you might be having a giant party with many speakers, stage lights, fans and air conditioners running. With this situation your solar array might be big enough for your day-to-day operations but the excess usage exceeds it capabilities. During these moments, the grid would power your appliances alongside your solar array. Of course, if you have enough batteries, they could kick in and make up the slack.

Finally, the most common reason is that you are building your solar array slowly over time to mitigate paying out large sums of money all at once. For example you might install a system that powers only 20% of your power needs and the other 80% comes from the grid. That is a good arrangement because your power bill will be 20% cheaper moving forward! Plus, you can slowly add onto your system so that it powers 40%, 60% and eventually 100% of your power needs.

As a rough guide, a system capable of 100% powering the average U.S. home would run about $35,000. Keep in mind, however, that this would come with at least $9,000 tax credit (possibly more depending on your state) and you would never have to pay an electric bill again! Plus, you can sell excess power from your solar array back to the electric company. That right - the power company sends you a check! Of course, you have to be grid-tied for this to work.

Obviously, there are many facets to solar power that are beyond this brief article. Hopefully, you have enough information to start thinking about how solar might fit into your life. Maybe you just spend $200 and buy a small solar panel, an inverter, and a marine battery and use this system to charge your laptop. Thats an easy first step toward being energy independent and cutting loose from that ghastly electric bill!

For more information on residential solar power please visit www.AbelOnsite.com.

Article indpendently authored by Eric Parish. The content here in may or may not reflect the views and opinions of Abel Onsite.

HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) Basics

HVAC, (the acronym that stands for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) means little more than a creature comfort, necessity, or a stiff repair bill to most homeowners today. Some homeowners don't even know what the acronym stands for in full! That being said, it is the responsibility of every homeowner to both know the basics without having to call Handyman Hank for help.

As the old mantra goes the best place to start is from the beginning, so let's begin by touching on a bit of history of the HVAC field. The systems inclusion in the home began way back in the industrial revolution when new methods of electronics and manufacturing became available, and lets face it, we got tired of sweating at work and at home. Heating and air-conditioning provides proper temperature and higher indoor air quality through mechanical engineering feats that are still being improved upon today.

The first portion of the acronym, heating, is most often used by way of a central heating system consisting of a boiler or furnace to heat water or air, and ductwork that provides a transport medium to move the warmed air throughout a structure. Typically the heating portion of the systems (i.e. radiators, heat pumps) is located in the coldest part of the home in order to provide proper circulation. Unsurprisingly, the invention of central air systems is credited to the ancient Romans, who created ductwork in homes and public baths.

Ventilating, also an important addition to HVAC, consists of the systems that exchanges, replaces, and filters existing indoor air in order to create a higher indoor air quality. Rooms in the home such as bathrooms use a more mechanical form of ventilation in order to reduce humidity and odors, while items such as ceiling fans seek to lower perceived temperatures and draw in fresh air through an open window. Your central air system also most likely uses ventilation in its process and provides high air quality through filters that eliminate and capture dust, mold spores, and other indoor allergens.

Lastly, air-conditioning systems work on the fact that cold air is the absence of heated air. These systems rely on principles such as conduction or chemical refrigerants to remove heat, therefore producing cool air. The ductwork that your central heating system uses is probably also used to disperse this cool air throughout the home. Some systems also use a dehumidifier to lower the temperature of the air as moist air seems warmer than dry air.

Heating, Ventilating, and Air-Conditioning does not have to be difficult, and through a little research you can become more informed and discuss your homes' system with your repairman effectively enough to keep it in working order. Call your local repairman or the manufacturer of your system for tips on how to keep your system running great.

Save on your energy bill today visit www.abelonsite.com for maintenance and service information.

Posted by WebDrafter.com, Inc. with permission.

Article independently authored by Matthew Eddington. The content herein may or may not reflect the views and opinions of Abel Onsite.

Install Radiant Floor Heating for Increased Comfort & Cost Savings

One of life's little nasty surprises is stepping out of the shower onto a chilly floor. Fortunately, you don't have to tolerate this discomfort any longer. With a radiant floor system, you can enjoy toasty warm floors - and many other advantages as well.

Radiant floor heating is a method of keeping a room or house warm by installing the heating elements under your flooring. The systems can be either electric or hydronic. Hydronic systems have been around for many years but are quite involved to install and, generally, not a good do-it-yourself project. They require lots of tubing, water heaters, pumps and other devices. On the whole, hyrdonic systems are best for heating very large areas.

For areas ranging from 300 square feet up to about 3,000 square feet, the low voltage radiant heat system works well. It is composed of 12" wide mesh installed on the sub-floor with the final floor covering installed on top of the mesh. Installation is made easy as the mesh can be nailed through without harming it. Spaces under 300 square feet can be heated with a line voltage system. Such systems are commonly used in kitchens and bathrooms. Rather than mesh, the system utilizes heating cables that are laid out on the sub-floor with the final flooring installed on top. Both of these systems can be installed under carpet, wood, tile, stone or marble. Once installed, both systems should be maintenance free as there are no moving parts or filters to change.

Radiant systems have two major advantages over forced air that make them appealing. The first advantage is cost savings as a result of greater efficiency. With a standard furnace, the air is heated remotely and then pushed to its final location The energy required to push the air adds dollars to your utility bill but does not nothing to heat your house. Further, some of the heat in the warmed air will be lost during transit through your duct work. With a radiant system, a much greater percentage of the expended energy is used to warm the room since heat is being generated where it is needed. This is much more efficient and easier on your utility bill. In fact, many people have reported savings of more than 30%.

The second advantage over a forced air system is comfort. Since the heat is emitted uniformly across the entire floor, cool spots are eliminated. With forced air, the heat enters the room at one or two locations and must then diffuse into the remaining portions of the room. As result, some parts of the room will be warmer than others. In a radiant system, the heat is dispersed evenly providing a more constant and uniform temperature.

The cost to install a radiant system can vary significantly depending on your specific situation. However, $4 to $10 per foot installed is typical with a standard bathroom being under $1,000. On any job, economy of scale will work in your favor meaning that the cost per square foot will go down as the area to be heated goes up.

No matter what your job size, you should solicit at least two estimates from contractors and ask for references. As in any trade, contractor quality can vary greatly so ask lots of questions before hiring somebody. Hopefully, you can now make a more informed decision and be able to retire your fuzzy, bunny slippers. With a radiant floor system, you just won't need them anymore.

For more information and guidance about radiant heat flooring, visit http://www.abelonsite.com. Abel Onsite, located outside Minneapolis, MN, specializes in solar heating, geothermal, HVAC and air conditioning systems.

Posted by WebDrafter.com, Inc. with permission.
Article independently authored by Eric Parish. The content herein may or may not reflect the views and opinions of Abel Onsite.